Mountaineers tell Mount Everest: the body when the signpost is full of people like a sty styled experience
On October 15, a sudden avalanche, more than 40 climbers permanently buried snow-capped mountains, which is by far the most difficult mountain in the Himalayas . On the 26th, the "Chongqing Times" interviewed Zhang Xianghai, a Chongqing man who climbed to the top last year and listened to his account of Mount Dengfeng's experience.
"The avalanche is actually predictable by virtue of the existing weather monitoring methods." Zhang Xianghai, as the second Everest resident in Chongqing, told the story at the time, "5:20 and at the peak, it was already old Tears ... "
However, "the top of the summit is just the beginning of the mountaineering, and living from top to bottom of Everest is the ultimate goal," said Zhang Xianghai.
Zhang Xiang Hai Deng top Everest
5000 meters hundred people tombs
There are two Mount Everest routes, the northern slope of China and the southern slope of Nepal.
Nepal's mature commercialization has attracted many climbers from home and abroad to climb Everest. Zhang Xianghai is one of them.
April 18, 2013, surrounded by peaks, Zhang Xianghai crossed the Pass, into the Mount Everest area at an altitude of 5000 meters above.
To meet him is standing in the big tablet group.
"This is a group of hundreds of mountaineering gravestones, some of which are bluestone stelae, and others are hell-clad graves that commemorate those who died during the Dengfeng process," recalls Zhang Xianghai.
Everest climbing is not a bold attempt to top, but the adaptive climbing stage. There are five camps in Mount Everest, in addition to the base camp, there are 5900 meters above sea level on the 1st camp, 6400 meters on the 2nd camp, 7500 meters on the 3rd camp and 7950 meters on the 4th camp.
"On the 19th, we arrived at Mount Everest Base Camp at 5,400 meters above sea level, and all the abnormal reactions became normal and started a period of nearly a month." Zhang Xianghai said.
The word "torment" is enough to reflect Zhang Xianghai's next difficult climbing trip.
Zhang Haixiang wrote in his diary: "On the 24th, diarrhea became more and more serious. Rhinitis quickly made itself hang in the dream, and the memory and reaction were declining.
6400 m 30% of the victims
"The real fear we encounter should start with the Khumbu Glacier," said Chang Cheong-hai. "In the Khumbu Glacier, we also call 'Terror Glacier,' there are several icefalls every day, and there are hundreds of snow-covered Ice seams, once dropped, can not be found in the bodies, and 30% of the victims in Mount Dengfeng are buried here, while on the way from base camp to Camp I must go through the Khumbu Glacier. "
Khumbu glaciers, glaciers shift, Sherpa have to take the ladder, fall into the ice seam will not come up.
27, three, a headache, like two people, simply sit up, where the elevation of 6400 meters, all have to be careful on the 28th, sleep has been improved, but the eyes swollen, blurred vision, the eyes became the focus of protection. "
"Mount Everest is a big test field, every detail of the body parts need extra attention, otherwise it will be enlarged here." Zhang Xianghai told reporters.
"On the 30th, Makaroo came the bad news and the Chinese team member fell into a crashed crash." Zhang Xianghai recorded the first news that someone was killed.
"May 2, nasal bleeding, stools have begun to bleed, can not eat spicy." Zhang Xianghai continued to record.
On the 4th Zhang Xianghai saw the "Sherpa" Sonar assigned to him. (Observer Network Note: Sherpa people living in the Sino-Nigerian border multinational race, they live in deep forests, almost isolated in the past, and later because of mountaineering climb Mount Everest as a guide or back husband and famous In the world.
"Nostalgia for the bed at home, driving in laziness and beautiful city life." On the day assigned to the guide, Zhang Xianghai began to miss the life down the hill.
"On the 8th, another Sherpa slippery in the No. 3 camp died, there are already three Sherpa killed before the official departure, so for the players here are going to be the situation?" Anxiety began Attack Zhang Xianghai.
"The base camp is like a snow-covered planet. All of us are exiled prisoners. We watch the helicopters coming and going every day, blowing the snow and waiting for the release of the prisoner after their capitulation."
7950 meters waiting for the summit
May 18, Zhang Xianghai ushered in the departure of the camp on the 4th day.
Perhaps waiting for too long after the excitement, perhaps all the way to a relatively smooth process so that he was relaxed before departure vigilance, which made him almost to stop Everest.
Zhang Xianghai recalled that at 6 o'clock in the morning, Zhang Xianghai is preparing to go to the summit, these preparations also include the toilet. "Because I went to the other side of the tent two meters to solve, I did not expect to step on the glacier crack, the whole person stuck in there." Zhang Xianghai told reporters.
From Zhang Xianghai's diary, we also see this scene. "Fall into the cracks, can not help but laugh.Have the last three mountaineering have cracks in the compulsory courses, but this time can not see the end, fell exceptionally deep, legs all fall into."
With rich mountaineering experience, Zhang Xianghai quickly toward vertical direction with the glaciers to lie down, increase the contact area with the ground. "When I got out, a Sherpa found me in collaboration, pulled over his ice ax and pulled me in. After I came back, I thought, if I fell, I was afraid I could not get back."
Kelp glacier ice seam
At noon on the same day, Zhang Xianghai smoothly reached No. 4 at an altitude of 7950 meters camp, the next step is to top.
At 7 o'clock in the evening, the summit starts, and the distance has been lit.
"The right hand side of the ridge is the motherland, and the return to the mind is extremely dangerous, with the sunning of the cold, the threat of sunburn and snow blight." Straight from the ridge, the first ray of light came from the motherland, in front of the legendary 'Hillary step' in the distance, is the ultimate goal - 8,844 meters Everest, "Zhang Xianghai wrote.
8200 meters body "pointing"
At 5:20 on May 19, Zhang Xianghai successfully reached the summit. However, the story really started.
"Top, just the beginning of mountaineering, most of the difficulties are taking place in the downhill." Zhang Xianghai told reporters.
This ice and snow fall under Everest is called the "death zone," and the body of the dreamers dispersed over Mount Everest is speechless proof.
"On the top of the road, saw a total of 2 dead bodies when the first encounter, I specifically looked at the altitude table, showing 8200 meters." Zhang Xianghai told reporters, "It looks like the line warning sign."
In May 1998, the 40-year-old female mountaineer Francis Ansenter of the United States fell 244 meters at the top of Mount Everest due to hypoxia. "Do not leave me" became the last word Francis left to the world.
"At altitudes of more than 8,500 meters, one can not justify ethical dimensions," said Jon Collethall, author of "Entering the Thin Air."
Mountaineering is a mirror, clear to everyone. In this environment, people's personality will be magnified, you can observe selfishness, desire, impetuous ......
Mountaineering is a mirror
According to statistics, a total of 2000 people have successfully climbed the summit since 2004, and 189 people have died on the way to death.
"From entering the Mount Everest area to the top of the successful summit of more than 20 days, count down almost an average of one person died every day." Zhang Xianghai told reporters.
"The body of the mountain, the Nepalese government will regularly clean up once, the body will be collected to concentrate buried some of the body due to elevation too high, can not be transported down the mountain, or in the crack cliff, can see but can not handle, can only stay there , Later people's road signs. "Zhang Xianghai told reporters.
Summit "all the people on the mountain, this is a pig styled experience"
Take a picture, after a short stay, Zhang Xianghai began to withdraw from the peak.
"At this moment, Hillary Clinton has started to traffic jams," Zhang Xianghai wrote in his diary. Here is the final sprint climb Mount Everest. "Mountaineering has an unwritten rule that people down the mountain have to wait for people to go uphill first, so we probably blocked for 40 minutes that time," Zhang Xianghai recalled.
Zhang Xianghai and plugged there there are climbers from all over the country.
"All in the mountains!" Said Aisha, a 31-year-old professional mountaineer from the United Kingdom. "This is not an experience of Mount Everest, which is a pigsty experience." Graham Tucao Road, he is a professional mountaineer in Sweden.
In May 2013, everybody returning from Mount Everest described the chaotic scene of the roof of the world as hundreds of people tried to climb the summit of the world's highest peak in a limited number of hours.
According to Mount Everest historian Eberhard statistics, up to 2000 before the peak number of Everest peak no more than 50 people; May 19, 2012 234 people successfully reached the summit.
On April 18, a catastrophe of 16 people killed opened the first Everest season of Mount Everest this year.
October 13, the second mountaineering season, 24 people suffered in the process of Everest Everest, unfortunately, died.
According to statistics, since Everest was conquered by humans in 1953, nearly 300 people have died of astrology.
Since 1953, when New Zealand mountaineers successfully climbed Mount Everest for the first time, by 2007, a total of 3,243 people successfully reached the summit. Since 1975, every year, a number of people have successfully climbed the summit and the number of successful summits has risen overall. As of the end of the mountaineering season in 2012, 6322 people successfully climbed Mount Everest (data from non-governmental organization 8000er.com).
Up to 2000, the maximum number of crests in Mount Everest within a day should not exceed 50; on May 19, 2012, there were 234 ascended to the top of the day (Eberhafen, Mount Everest historian).